Neck shaping. Tool tips.

Here are 2 videos showing a little work that I am doing on the 6 string bass.

This video is a general "what I am doing" one. The semi-hollow body is nearly finished - I have been play testing it a lot (IE I like playing it and don't want to take it apart to finish...).

This is a mid-stage video of the headstock and body carving. The key in the work is to visualise and maintain focus on the end goal and not to freak out about using a rasp or chisel and leaving an uneven surface - you work in varying degrees of coarseness for the sake of efficiency.

Spoke shave/Chisel/Rasp/File/Cabinet Scraper/Power tools/Sand paper?

Here are some of my criteria for choosing which tool to use when shaping a neck - this is not a complete resource - experiment. I have seen people shape whole instruments with a rasp - there is no "right" way. (HINT: A drywall hatchet is NOT the right way. Someone actually did this!!!).

Power Tools

I like to do as much as I can with power tools. These are often the best at working with very hard woods, they work (often) faster than hand tools. Since I am specifically mentioning the neck, I will stay on topic regarding my use of them.

- Main cuts in the preparation of the neck, all thicknessing/surfacing (laminates etc) (Bandsaw, table saw, router, power plane)

- All channels (rods/bars down the neck) and holes (machine heads) (Router/drills)

- General sanding (Palm sander/belt sander)

*After rasping it often works that a palm sander can clean the gouges up just faster than a file, however it is not as nimble. This is very good because the cabinet shaper will work VERY well on a smooth surface.

- Penultimate sanding (Palm sander)

NB. Keep all fingers! Sharp tools, tight collets, awake operator. Cut 3 times, measure once... right? ;)

Spoke shave

The spoke shave is the main tool that I use to shape the neck. It allows me to do long smooth cuts and due to its narrow base I can work on curves, slopes and in confined space. The long plane fails because its base is much too big.

- Main neck shaping (to any contour - deep "C", "V", hybrids or compound shapes).

- Limited shaping at the body and headstock side - this is due to its size. Much like the long plane cannot fit to shape the main part of the neck, the spoke shave is limited, and that is why I have a handful of tools to work with.

NB. Remove less rather than more and be aware that grain can reverse and tear out. A sharp blade, strong grip and shallow cut depth will help.

Rasp

The rasp is a very rough tool. It is excellent at removing a lot of material in hard to reach areas. It is capable of creating very natural curves, and with care the "clean up" of the gouges it leaves is simple. The palm sander/file/sandpaper are good options for removing the gouges.

-Neck/headstock transition area. This is the only tool for the job (in my opinion). The spoke shave will not do this well. Sanding will take forever, as will a file.

- Body/neck (heel) transition. In conjunction with the chisel and spoke shave this moulding can look very neat.

NB. Long, controlled strokes - pushing or pulling in the direction of the cut work best. Resist the urge to drag the tool back across the work piece - you un-necessarily wear the tool and yourself.

Chisel

I like carving with the chisel because it seems like something that they would have done in the "old times". I don't like cutting myself with the chisel, though I bet they did that too!

The chisel is fabulous at carving the tight radius shapes found at the heel, for detailing areas anywhere - sometimes the chisel more accurately removes wood.

- Neck/body transition area. The chisel is indispensable for shaping in here, as I am building mainly through-necks and there is always a very tight radius needing shaped. The rasp runs the risk of damaging the body with scrapes whereas patience and a bit of focus with a chisel will turn good results.

- Headstock/neck area. The chisel is useful to help shape this transition in several ways. Before the rasp is used you can remove bulk wood with the chisel to speed the rasp work. (I do this sometimes). Or after you can clean up rasp marks in hard-to get areas, or indeed just general shaping.

I find that a firm, strong grip with both hands, 1 supporting the blade is necessary for most of my shaping. If the tool is sharp there is no need to muscle the cuts - you should not be taking so much wood off that it needs undue force. If this is happening, sharpen, think, work. A firmly held work piece is a MUST for working.

NB. As with most wood working tools, the chisel is USELESS if it is blunt. It is a danger to your piece and to you if it is blunt. Sharp tools = good work.

File

The humble file is very useful at cleaning up the gouges left by the rasp - seems like most of the tools here are damage management for the rasp - ha! It is very capable at shaping and cuts very effectively across the grain. Like the rasp it leaves gouges, it can also ruin a nice carved radius if you run the edge into it - stay awake.

- Cleaning rasp damage. This is anywhere you use a rasp - anywhere on the neck.

- Working on medium radices. Usually nearing a final step as it will take some time to shift even 1-2mm.

NB. Push, don't push/pull. Files cut in the push direction and you speed up the wear/bluntening process if you push/pull. The dust doesn't get as good a chance to clear and it cuts no faster. Good support from both hands will always give better results, 1 handed filing will produce more scrap wood... guitar shaped wood. Or some "clever" thinking (about how to get around the gaff).

Cabinet Scraper

Very useful tool for final shaping. It can remove more wood than you wood think. (sorry) They can get into reasonably tight radii and will mess things up if you are too hasty, especially against the grain. They work remarkably well on sanded wood, much better than a rough surface. They can tend to accent a rough surface unlike a file or sandpaper which removes the peaks and levels it.

- Entire neck final shaping before sanding stages. Useful to remove any slight undulations in the carving.

NB. Keep a keen edge on this tool. Support with both hands, and tell it that it is just as useful as all the other tools even though it is just scraper...

Sand Paper

Hand sanding is the final stage. It is so painfully boring that I like to do as much as I can with a palm sander. Work from coarse to fine, do not let any scrapes from a previous stage pass into the fine stages of sanding because you will never shift it with fine paper. Lift the cabinet scraper/coarse paper.

- Entire neck/entire instrument.

I tend to work in the following order of grades:

1. 80 grit (palm sander)

2. 120 grit (hand sanding - block/sponge support optional)

3. 180 grit

4. 320 grit

5. 400 grit

6. 800 grit

You don't need to go much further on an oiled instrument, and on a spray finish you should stop at around 320/400 grit to give the paint a key to grip, then finish the paint up to 1600+ grit.

I have been writing too much, I now have a headache. I think watching some Frasier or something will help!

Until next time, here is a cool guy playing a bass.

Blessings,

Mike

Convex hand plane - home build.

Short post - I am tired, medicated and tired. Did I just say that?

Ok..

I made a convex handplane to help me make carved top guitars which I plan to do. I cannot possibly justify spending £55 or more on a plane - I mean I could put that money to much better use, so I bought a £7 plane blade (35mm Stanley) and cut it to an approximate rounded tip (I drew a guide, but worked by eye a lot). I then cleaned this and bevelled a 30* blade on it with a grinder and finished off on the wet stone. I spent a good hour or 2 on the blade.

Next I fabricated the parts for the plane out of Ash, Oak and Rosewood. I had scraps of each of these from old projects or old furniture (hoping dad didn't have plans for that table...). There are plans online, just google it. I looked at them and much in the same way that I cook, I remembered a few key stats and went ahead with it.

The blade is set at 45*, the opposing side is also 45*, the plane blade bevel is 30* and the gap between the blade and the front of the plane (sorry, it must be called something better) should be between 1 and 3mm. I have mine set near 1mm because I plan only to take the smallest amounts of hardwoods off. For a smoothing plane or a block plane I suggest a little more, especially if you plan to work with softwoods because this gap ensures the cuttings go up and through the plane rather than falling under it causing the plane to slip and the cut to be very uneven. Just build one and see what I mean - you can easily modify it if it is too large or too small an opening. Probably easier to shim one which is too large though. Maybe worth erring on that side.

Some un-finished media below - I have since finished the plane with Tung oil. It has really lifted the colours of the woods. Rosewood is beautiful for the purple tone to it, really beautiful. Nice to work with as well, despite it smelling like circuit boards.

Here is a video of the plane:

A couple of pictures:

Just applied a coat of Tung oil:

Here is some of the timber for some new builds - not pictured - 10' of 12" wide tulipwood.

Left to right: Ash, American Maple, Sepele Mahogany, 2x Walnut.

Bandsaw

I was fortunate to have a friend whose father was a retired carpenter and happened to have a saw which totally suited my needs - a good tool as well! I picked it up last week and here are some of the things I have been working on before putting her to use.

This is how it looks (if these photos look odd it is because I rotated them online).

And the reason it is called a bandsaw - the blade is a band of toothed steel which runs around 2 pulleys, 1 of which is driven - in this case by a 550w induction motor.

One of the top guide wheels was supported by a fractured piece of cast aluminium (rubbish material really) so I set about replacing that. Firstly the wheel, and a look under the top guide mechanism. The left wheel support is fine.

Here you can see the fractured holder, and the 1/4" metal strapping which I planned to cut to suit. The hole in the strapping both suited the bolt position and size! Nice, eh!?

I really just break things so that I can angle grind stuff... or take pictures of me angle grinding stuff... honestly! (not really)

This is the replacement shoe which needs a slot ground in it.

There is the shoe with the slot ground - far from perfect, but close to "good enough"!

Here is the top support set correctly - all guides are not touching until pressure is applied in that direction.

And a cut from a piece of 2 1/4" Ash - all working well!

The owner before Ronnie had this set very poorly. (Ronnie used this saw once or twice, but never had the call to, so all comments apply to its previous owner) Out of interest I checked the bottom supports, and the right hand ceramic pressure support thingy (technical term) was deflecting the blade by almost 1mm - BAD. The rear support wheel was about 10mm from the blade!! BAD. All set properly now!

To get to those fixtures I had to remove the cast iron work top and the bolt that secured it was cast into a plastic wing-nut which had rounded and didn't grip any more. I broke that away, removed the bolt with spanners. I then cut a large washer and had my dad weld it to a suitable nut. I cleaned it up with an angle grinder (woo) and it works better than ever! (considering it never worked...)

I will do the same thing for the guide stanchion on the front of the tool - same plastic rubbish nut. I put a wing-nut on there, but it is too small for my delicate fingers to work with! Here is an example of a rip-cut from a future guitar neck:

MUCH to my surprise the starting capacitor blew while I was lightly using the saw!! Now load on the motor wouldn't cause this, and there wasn't even much of that, so I guess it was defective, it is 12 years old after all. Still, I didn't want to see this:

And for the grand price of £5.95 inc. postage I have a replacement part! For anyone running the Elektra Beckum or Metabo BAS315 (and 316/317 - the updates) the start capacitor for the 0.55kW motor is labelled "16400". It is 16 micro-farads @ 400V.

I have some good examples of scroll work to post up, but this post is long enough. I will sign off with a few points.

5/8" (15mm) blades for rip sawing large depths coming - 6 and 3TPI versions.

1/4" (6mm) blade @ 10TPI for general finer sawing on the way.

I found some suitable hardwoods locally. When I manage that bank job I will drop a bit of cash and start building more instruments.

I have 2 bass body wings cut and ready, and 1 guitar body wings cut and ready.

There will be an 8 string guitar this year.

Finally, since no-one would believe this unless they saw it - this is half of the workshop... and tomorrow I start tidying.

Good night and God bless,

Mike